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#680616 - 23/10/13 07:08 AM 2000 3.3 hard to start when warmed up
2kbadxterra Offline
Member

Registered: 23/10/13
Posts: 22
I have a 2k Xterra 3.3 v6
The engine starts fine when cold, and runs fine.
It starts fine when hot and runs fine.
Once running if it sits for about an hour, it's hard to start.
runs rough for a bit at this point, then seems ok again.

I first thought fuel pressure regulator, but decided to let a mechanic have a look. He says it is the distributor.
My concern is that his reasoning is that it is always the distributor which feels like a guess to me.

He wants 650 to do the repair.
I have seen aftermarket distributors for 200 and under and I think I could put one in myself as I have tools and a timing light.
Does his diagnosis seem reasonable?
If it is, any opinions on aftermarket distributors?

Any ideas???? Help????


Edited by 2kbadxterra (23/10/13 04:23 PM)

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#680643 - 28/10/13 05:50 AM Re: 2000 3.3 hard to start when warmed up [Re: 2kbadxterra]
2kbadxterra Offline
Member

Registered: 23/10/13
Posts: 22
I have checked and there are no error codes.

I am now very doubtful that there is an electrical issue in the ignition.

I checked the fuel pressure and it is 42 psi at idle.
The specifications I have are that it should be 32 psi at idle.

I suspect fuel pressure regulation at this point or a leaky fuel injector flooding the engine.

Could the extra pressue be causing the injectors to leak?

As the upper intake plenum has to come off to change the regulator or access the fuel rail, I want to have anything I may need readily available when the intake is off of the car.

Any thoughts???
Help??
Anyone??
Any response would be appreciated at this point.

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#680645 - 28/10/13 06:18 AM Re: 2000 3.3 hard to start when warmed up [Re: 2kbadxterra]
TJ Offline
Member
*****

Registered: 08/03/01
Posts: 7756
Loc: Lawrenceville, NJ, USA
Its hard to diagnose over the internet, but, it could be a few things...including the distributor.

The MAF sensor could be fouled, the fuel pump could be going south, and so forth.

How many miles on it, and, have you done any modifications, added a K&N air filter, done any recent maintenance, or not done it, changed anything from stock, etc?

Aftermarket dizzies are notoriously wonky...one time, I went through 14 to get one working one.



Edited by TJ (28/10/13 06:20 AM)
_________________________
- TJ

2001 Xterra '03 VG33, SE 5 spd, 305/70/16's, Revolvers, UBSkidderz, Doubled AAL's, 3"SL/2"BL, winch/bumpers, skids, sliders, OBA, Snorkel, pine stripes....

Friends don't let friends drive stock.

http://www.gifsoup.com/view/501230/tj-tackling-crawlers-ridge-o.gif

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#680650 - 28/10/13 12:00 PM Re: 2000 3.3 hard to start when warmed up [Re: TJ]
2kbadxterra Offline
Member

Registered: 23/10/13
Posts: 22
I appreciate any input I can get and know you can't diagnose over the net. Just hoping for ideas.

It is all stock to the best of my knowledge.
It is a new purchase, as is, unfirtunately so I don't know the history of it. It has 124k miles on it.

I put new plugs in it the cap / rotor and wires look new.
#6 was real hard to change but I got it. All the plugs looked good too, real light tan, looked great.

I hooked up a code reader and all seems well. No error codes.

We have learned a work around for starting. Treat it like a flooded engine when it is acting up and it starts right away.

I checked the fuel pressue at idle and it sits at 42 psi.
The manual says iot should be 32 psi at idle.
That seems wrong to me and I am really leaning towards that as at least part of the problem.
I'll look at the MAF sensor and see how it looks.

It just passed emission insepction but they didn't actually sniff the exhaust, just let the computer say all is well.


Would a distributor be going out an have no error codes?


Edited by 2kbadxterra (28/10/13 12:05 PM)

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#680657 - 31/10/13 08:42 AM Re: 2000 3.3 hard to start when warmed up [Re: 2kbadxterra]
TJ Offline
Member
*****

Registered: 08/03/01
Posts: 7756
Loc: Lawrenceville, NJ, USA
Originally Posted By: 2kbadxterra
I appreciate any input I can get and know you can't diagnose over the net. Just hoping for ideas.

It is all stock to the best of my knowledge.
It is a new purchase, as is, unfirtunately so I don't know the history of it. It has 124k miles on it.

I put new plugs in it the cap / rotor and wires look new.
#6 was real hard to change but I got it. All the plugs looked good too, real light tan, looked great.

I hooked up a code reader and all seems well. No error codes.

We have learned a work around for starting. Treat it like a flooded engine when it is acting up and it starts right away.

I checked the fuel pressue at idle and it sits at 42 psi.
The manual says iot should be 32 psi at idle.
That seems wrong to me and I am really leaning towards that as at least part of the problem.
I'll look at the MAF sensor and see how it looks.

It just passed emission insepction but they didn't actually sniff the exhaust, just let the computer say all is well.


Would a distributor be going out an have no error codes?



Yeah, it could.

Also:

If its running rich, that can be the sensors thinking there's more air than there is, etc.

If you get 42 instead of 32 psi at idle, it could be the running rich related issue, as it there's more pressure to supply more gas than needed...or a pressure sensor issue, etc.

If the pressure sensor thinks the fuel psi is low, and makes it boost it, it could make it run rich as well.

Too high a psi there would of course increase the delivery velocity and also result in unburned hydrocarbons, etc.

So, I typically start with free/cheaper fixes, and work up from there....so the MAF and dizzy checks are a good starting point.
_________________________
- TJ

2001 Xterra '03 VG33, SE 5 spd, 305/70/16's, Revolvers, UBSkidderz, Doubled AAL's, 3"SL/2"BL, winch/bumpers, skids, sliders, OBA, Snorkel, pine stripes....

Friends don't let friends drive stock.

http://www.gifsoup.com/view/501230/tj-tackling-crawlers-ridge-o.gif

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#680697 - 14/11/13 12:38 PM Re: 2000 3.3 hard to start when warmed up [Re: TJ]
2kbadxterra Offline
Member

Registered: 23/10/13
Posts: 22
Took it to another mechanic who thinks it may have a blown head gasket.

I am really skeptical of that because it starts and runs good first thing in the morning, the oil is not contaminated, all 6 plugs look good, the anti-freeze passed a hydrocarbon test, it doesn't smoke, the anti-freeze looks normal and just it passed emissions testing.

They didn't run a hydrocarbon test on it until questioned how they decided it is a blown head gasket.
It was a bit low on coolant, but was leaking around a couple of coolant hoses on the intake.

The mechanic has now changed his mind.

Any thoughts?

I am just baffled.


Edited by 2kbadxterra (15/11/13 01:08 PM)

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#680710 - 16/11/13 01:14 PM Re: 2000 3.3 hard to start when warmed up [Re: 2kbadxterra]
2kbadxterra Offline
Member

Registered: 23/10/13
Posts: 22
Removing the intake tomorrow.

Going to inspect pressure regulator, do a compression test and just generally look for antyhing suspicious. Seems to me that at least one cylinder should have low compression if a head gasket is the cause.

Have a code reader that gives live engine readings also, running that on the drive to the garage I have for a few days.
I anticipate at least a day delay on any partds I need once the intake is off.
May remove lower intake if there appears to be any reason to go deeper.

Failing to find anything, may just drive it till the problem gets worse. The cause would have to be more apparent if the symtoms get worse.

Still baffled at absolutely no error codes.


Edited by 2kbadxterra (16/11/13 01:17 PM)

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#680712 - 18/11/13 05:12 AM Re: 2000 3.3 hard to start when warmed up [Re: 2kbadxterra]
2kbadxterra Offline
Member

Registered: 23/10/13
Posts: 22
Intake off. The allen heads on the intake were a mess. Different sizes, one already a bit torn up by someone before I started.
Got them all out with no drilling.
Replacing them when reassembling.

Hoses on the back of intake were also no fun at all. The squeeze clamps were so old they just bent and failed. Replacing all of those with new also.

The fuel pressure regulator is bad as I have suspected.
Once I got it off the car I tried the vaccuum fitting on it the old fashioned way and got a small drink of gas as my reward.
Also, my OBDII tester reads live engine data and my fuel trim readings are mostly negative which I think means the EFI is trying to lean the motor out, maybe because that regulator is puking fuel up the vacuum hose. I HOPE I am right becasue this Xterra is eating my brain and I am really tired of this issue.

Replacing the regulator, clamps and hoses.
There is some antifreeze leakage undert the intake. Not certain from which hose, so simply going to replace all coolant and vaccuum hoses while I have it off.

Not certain the regulator is causing the starting issues, but at this point, 6 weeks of thinking and looking, asking questions all over the place, 2 different shops and several mechanics, the fuel pressure is the only thing I can say with certainty is bad on it, so we shall see what happens.

I mean it is possible there is a head gasket leaking, and it is possible the distributor is bad and it is possible there is something else, but it just seems unlikely that with all those issues the only symptom it wooul ever have is it is hard to start donly when somewhere bewteen hot and cold and still runs fine after the hard start. Now it does take maybe 30 seconds after the hard start till it settles down and runs smooth, but still, just seems like it would be worse than that.

I am anxious to get it back together and running to see if I am right or will be taking it apart again.

Any thoughts about aftermarket regulators?
Should I get one from Nissan or just go with the one from O'Reillys?

Anything else I should replace just because I have the intake off? I am open to throwing a hundred bucks of "just in case" parts while it is off as I DON'T want to do this again if I can avoid it.



Edited by 2kbadxterra (18/11/13 07:21 AM)

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#680713 - 18/11/13 07:37 AM Re: 2000 3.3 hard to start when warmed up [Re: 2kbadxterra]
2kbadxterra Offline
Member

Registered: 23/10/13
Posts: 22
I feel like the only person in this thread now. lol

That's ok, it is a bit like a diary of my thoughts on this at this point.

This is a good friends car, cash is a huge problem, so I have to be very cautious about throwing money at a fix. Can't take many guesses, guesses cost money.

I am more than frustrated at the mechanics it has been to.
I as relieved to have finally taken the intake off as it was scary to me just because of the stupid, want to strip out allen keys on the intake and the 3 hoses in the back.

I haven't done a lot of repair work in recent years.
At this point in my life I drive newer cars and they really don't need much attention.

I am anxious about the re-assembly, but think it will be easier than taking it apart was.

It has been kind of fun actually, but must keep in mind that this is serious business for the owner.

Here is a tip for the allen keys on the intake. They all were various fits of the allen keys. 3 were torx, and different sizes. One had been almost stripped by someone. Only one was in good shape. I soaked them in penetrating oil the night before I started the work.
When I started the work. I took a punch that fit into the caps without hitting the sides, and hammered on each one for a good 30 seconds. Poor mans impact wrench. I cleaned the inside of the caps before I tried the wrench on them. I tried US and metric bits till I got the tightest fit on each individual key.
I never just tried to "brute force" them out. Tried to turn, then hammered on them when I felt the turning was getting close to breaking or stripping.

I suggest replacing them with high quality cap heads when re-assembling so hopefully if this needs to come off again, it will be a simple, insert key, turn wrench instead of an hour long excersie in caution hoping to avoid drilling.

The hoses on the back. Good grief.
Buy hose pliers. Got a set of 3 sizes cheap at Harbor Freight.
Wonderful tools. Also long nose angled pliers.
Now half of the clamps were easy, the pliers released them, then I used the hose pliers to twist and remove the hose.
The rest of them, well, the clamps bent the tabs and then things got ugly.
Allow a lot of time to work on them, they will try your patience. Just keep at it and realize that you are not gonna re-use those hoses, so they can be sacrificed, and persevere till you get them. If you keep at it, you will get them. New hoses and clamps should be used to re-assmble.

If you don't hear from me again, I prolly royally hosed the re-assembly and am too embarassed to even type in here again... lol



Edited by 2kbadxterra (18/11/13 07:46 AM)

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#680714 - 19/11/13 07:22 AM Re: 2000 3.3 hard to start when warmed up [Re: 2kbadxterra]
TJ Offline
Member
*****

Registered: 08/03/01
Posts: 7756
Loc: Lawrenceville, NJ, USA
Thank you for sharing with the group.

We feel your pain.
_________________________
- TJ

2001 Xterra '03 VG33, SE 5 spd, 305/70/16's, Revolvers, UBSkidderz, Doubled AAL's, 3"SL/2"BL, winch/bumpers, skids, sliders, OBA, Snorkel, pine stripes....

Friends don't let friends drive stock.

http://www.gifsoup.com/view/501230/tj-tackling-crawlers-ridge-o.gif

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#680722 - 22/11/13 06:39 AM Re: 2000 3.3 hard to start when warmed up [Re: TJ]
2kbadxterra Offline
Member

Registered: 23/10/13
Posts: 22
Got it back together.

I am out of practice at this mechanic thing, but it is coming back quickly.

Assembly was was easier than dissassembly. New hoses and clamps make things so much easier to deal with.

One of the heater hoses had no hose clamp on it. I strongly suspect that this has been a large part of the coolant loss it has been experiencing.

Got it all together, or so I thought.... drove a bit noticed the idle was a bit up and down and then got a check engine light.

Panic set in at that point, fearing I would need to dissassemble to connect something I had missed.

Discovered I had failed to tighten the ground wires on top of the intake. What a relief.
Cleared the codes and they did not return.

I am now wondering if the low coolant was confusing the throttle position sensor as coolant flows through it which certainly wasn't helping the engine start when somewhere between hot and cold. The last mechanic that looked at it said the coolant was only slightly low, but I had to add a gallon to get it up to the correct level and I know I only lost a small amount when removing the intake. I call that more than a little low.

Haven't checked the fuel pressure yet ( really wish Nissan had put a port on to test pressure instead of having to remove the fuel filter )but with the new regulator, the fuel trim readings are very different than beofore. I may look into installing one if my friend keeps this car and I keep working on it.

Not certain the problem is corrected though. Due to the nature of the problem, I need to drive it a couple of days to determine if it is all good or not.

Fingers crossed.....

All that said, the more I work on this car, the more I like it.
I think there is an emotional attachment I get to a car when I have had it apart, a familiarity. Hard to explain, but the more I work on a vehicle the more I like it.

How odd....



Edited by 2kbadxterra (22/11/13 06:40 AM)

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#680723 - 22/11/13 08:50 AM Re: 2000 3.3 hard to start when warmed up [Re: 2kbadxterra]
TJ Offline
Member
*****

Registered: 08/03/01
Posts: 7756
Loc: Lawrenceville, NJ, USA
X's grow on you. Sort of like when you take in a stray dog, and end up keeping it.


After the battery is disco'd for long enough, the CPU resets....and the management program has to relearn how to work the engine and so forth, which can take 500 - 2500 miles or so to get it all smoothed out...so there can be a few hiccups in progress that work themselves out.




Edited by TJ (22/11/13 08:52 AM)
_________________________
- TJ

2001 Xterra '03 VG33, SE 5 spd, 305/70/16's, Revolvers, UBSkidderz, Doubled AAL's, 3"SL/2"BL, winch/bumpers, skids, sliders, OBA, Snorkel, pine stripes....

Friends don't let friends drive stock.

http://www.gifsoup.com/view/501230/tj-tackling-crawlers-ridge-o.gif

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#680738 - 25/11/13 06:08 AM Re: 2000 3.3 hard to start when warmed up [Re: TJ]
2kbadxterra Offline
Member

Registered: 23/10/13
Posts: 22
"After the battery is disco'd for long enough, the CPU resets....and the management program has to relearn how to work the engine and so forth, which can take 500 - 2500 miles or so to get it all smoothed out...so there can be a few hiccups in progress that work themselves out.
"

That statement interests and puzzle me.
Are you saying that the engie management will alter the settings over time?

This car has been exhibiting this starting symptom for at least 3000 miles now.

The starting seems better, but still not where I would like it to be. This car had sat for some time, but I think hthe battery was up. I find that I often crank on it for a couple of seconds, it almost starts, I try it again and then it does. Unlinke before changing the regulator, it seems to run ok right away, just takes a few seconds of cranking on it.

Saturday I discovered that the throttle position on the fast idle was way out of adjustment. I adjusted it back to the setting indicated by the Nissan factory service manual. I returned the car to my friend yesterday and am anxious to hear how she is getting along with it since my work.



Edited by 2kbadxterra (25/11/13 07:41 AM)

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#680742 - 27/11/13 07:00 AM Re: 2000 3.3 hard to start when warmed up [Re: 2kbadxterra]
2kbadxterra Offline
Member

Registered: 23/10/13
Posts: 22
Here is the latest.
The Xterra is starting much better, but still not right.
The symptoms are less now that the pressure is correct, which leads me to think I am an idiot for not proceeding to remove the injectors while I had the intake off.
I am betting that it had a bad regulator and also has a leaky injector. The pressure increased the extent of the leak and now being correct, is still leaking, but not as much. Of course, assuming that it is simply running rich, it also makes sense it is simply much happier in the cold weather.

That is my theory anyway. lol
It does make sense in light of the observed improvement, but I still reserve the right to be wrong and in my defense, this is a strange issue I am chasing down.

Will take the intake off again in the next few weeks.
It should be much easier this time as I am familar with it all and the hoses on the back are new so they won't be so difficult to get off this time. It is my pennance to pay for not taking one more step while doing the original work.

The bright side is, that the coolant level has remained constant in the last 200 miles, so the coolant level dropping mystery was solved by replacing a couple of hoses and clamps.

Planning to do the timing belt when I take the intake off again. As it is a "new used car" I have no idea the age of the current belt and with 127k miles it is either ok, or 25k over, kinda sweating that one till I can change it.

My friend is driving 300 miles one way home for the Thanksgiving holiday in it, so please say a prayer to the timing belt Gods.....I am kinda stressed and nervous, just hoping the belt is ok for another 1k miles.




Edited by 2kbadxterra (27/11/13 01:53 PM)

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#680746 - 01/12/13 09:43 AM Re: 2000 3.3 hard to start when warmed up [Re: 2kbadxterra]
TJ Offline
Member
*****

Registered: 08/03/01
Posts: 7756
Loc: Lawrenceville, NJ, USA
Originally Posted By: 2kbadxterra
Here is the latest.
The Xterra is starting much better, but still not right.
The symptoms are less now that the pressure is correct, which leads me to think I am an idiot for not proceeding to remove the injectors while I had the intake off.
I am betting that it had a bad regulator and also has a leaky injector. The pressure increased the extent of the leak and now being correct, is still leaking, but not as much. Of course, assuming that it is simply running rich, it also makes sense it is simply much happier in the cold weather.

That is my theory anyway. lol
It does make sense in light of the observed improvement, but I still reserve the right to be wrong and in my defense, this is a strange issue I am chasing down.

Will take the intake off again in the next few weeks.
It should be much easier this time as I am familar with it all and the hoses on the back are new so they won't be so difficult to get off this time. It is my pennance to pay for not taking one more step while doing the original work.

The bright side is, that the coolant level has remained constant in the last 200 miles, so the coolant level dropping mystery was solved by replacing a couple of hoses and clamps.

Planning to do the timing belt when I take the intake off again. As it is a "new used car" I have no idea the age of the current belt and with 127k miles it is either ok, or 25k over, kinda sweating that one till I can change it.

My friend is driving 300 miles one way home for the Thanksgiving holiday in it, so please say a prayer to the timing belt Gods.....I am kinda stressed and nervous, just hoping the belt is ok for another 1k miles.





Dear Timing Belt God,

Please let out brother X's timing belt survive the remaining teeth and cogs of outrageous fortune, to bring the X safely back to a warm and welcoming timing belt change.

Amen.
_________________________
- TJ

2001 Xterra '03 VG33, SE 5 spd, 305/70/16's, Revolvers, UBSkidderz, Doubled AAL's, 3"SL/2"BL, winch/bumpers, skids, sliders, OBA, Snorkel, pine stripes....

Friends don't let friends drive stock.

http://www.gifsoup.com/view/501230/tj-tackling-crawlers-ridge-o.gif

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#680752 - 02/12/13 05:12 AM Re: 2000 3.3 hard to start when warmed up [Re: TJ]
2kbadxterra Offline
Member

Registered: 23/10/13
Posts: 22
The belt survived the trip. Motor never skipped a beat.

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#680764 - 03/12/13 11:21 PM Re: 2000 3.3 hard to start when warmed up [Re: 2kbadxterra]
TJ Offline
Member
*****

Registered: 08/03/01
Posts: 7756
Loc: Lawrenceville, NJ, USA
Originally Posted By: 2kbadxterra
The belt survived the trip. Motor never skipped a beat.


In honor of you, the most holy of all belt gods, allowing our brother to safely complete his journey with his timing belt intact, a virgin timing belt will be sacrificed, along with a virgin tensioning pin and water pump and accessories so as to please you, and entreat you to continue your blessed and benign protection.

Amen
_________________________
- TJ

2001 Xterra '03 VG33, SE 5 spd, 305/70/16's, Revolvers, UBSkidderz, Doubled AAL's, 3"SL/2"BL, winch/bumpers, skids, sliders, OBA, Snorkel, pine stripes....

Friends don't let friends drive stock.

http://www.gifsoup.com/view/501230/tj-tackling-crawlers-ridge-o.gif

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#680766 - 04/12/13 07:15 AM Re: 2000 3.3 hard to start when warmed up [Re: TJ]
2kbadxterra Offline
Member

Registered: 23/10/13
Posts: 22
lol

Well, the reality is, money is a big problem for the owner, so it will likely be only the belt, tensioner and tensioing pin done.

I know several other things should be changed just because, but only the necessities will be done to hold the cost down.

Does the water pump have to come off to do the belt?

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#680786 - 17/12/13 06:47 AM Re: 2000 3.3 hard to start when warmed up [Re: 2kbadxterra]
2kbadxterra Offline
Member

Registered: 23/10/13
Posts: 22
Well, a new problem popped up, maybe just the original problem deteriorating.

Terrible miss. Idle jumps up and down a couple hundred rpms.
Will barely get to 50 mph. At 35 or 40, the tach is jumping up and down about 1k rpm. Like a bad miss or actually turning on and off.

Still no engine codes. Argh.

Checked fuel press, as I seem to have had a 1 track mind about that and it is good, so I am eliminating fuel pump, thinking electrical.

Owner took it to another mechaninc, it ran fine there. Argh.
They said it was likely a distributor, but didn't want to change it while it is running fine.

On the way back home, the problem came back.

The one common theme from all that have looked at it is distributor.

I took a trip to the Nissan dealer and bought one.

Planning to take one last long look at it tommorrow.
Gonna pull plugs one more time, see how they look, check crank sensor, and unless I find something else wrong, gonna put in a new distributor.

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#680787 - 17/12/13 04:13 PM Re: 2000 3.3 hard to start when warmed up [Re: 2kbadxterra]
TJ Offline
Member
*****

Registered: 08/03/01
Posts: 7756
Loc: Lawrenceville, NJ, USA
Dizzy is not a bad guess
_________________________
- TJ

2001 Xterra '03 VG33, SE 5 spd, 305/70/16's, Revolvers, UBSkidderz, Doubled AAL's, 3"SL/2"BL, winch/bumpers, skids, sliders, OBA, Snorkel, pine stripes....

Friends don't let friends drive stock.

http://www.gifsoup.com/view/501230/tj-tackling-crawlers-ridge-o.gif

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#680791 - 19/12/13 05:10 AM Re: 2000 3.3 hard to start when warmed up [Re: TJ]
2kbadxterra Offline
Member

Registered: 23/10/13
Posts: 22
Distributor was full of ground up bearing fragments.

Running great again.

Still has that odd problem with the long crank time when not hot or cold. I was really hoping that would cure that too, but it is back to running good again, so that is good.

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#680792 - 19/12/13 05:41 AM Re: 2000 3.3 hard to start when warmed up [Re: 2kbadxterra]
2kbadxterra Offline
Member

Registered: 23/10/13
Posts: 22
I am gonna do the timing belt very soon.

Going through my usual worry phase before doing an unknown job.
It does help me prepare and have things ready to go when I do the work though.

Are there any potential problems I should be aware of when doing the belt?

A friend who is a mechanic told me just to wedge a big breaker bar against the frame, and hit the starter to loosen the crank pulley bolt.

I purchased a timig belt tension tool, figured the 50 bucks was worth it to keep me from worrying I got the tension worng.

I just need to get a puller for the crank pulley and dig up or purchase a 3/4 drive socket set and breaker bar. I'm thinking Harbor Freight will suffice for those items.

After that I think I am good to go.

I hope.. lol


Edited by 2kbadxterra (20/12/13 08:57 AM)

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#680796 - 20/12/13 02:42 PM Re: 2000 3.3 hard to start when warmed up [Re: 2kbadxterra]
e207 Offline
Member
**

Registered: 28/06/09
Posts: 549
Loc: Ashland, PA U.S.A.
the Starter trick can work well, one important thing to keep in mine if going that route, or even if not is to make sure your radiator is protected in case something doesnt go as planned, ie: should the breaker bar let loose or even just using tools in that area. I actually took my radiator out when doing the job, made for much more room, and also allowed room to use an impact gun for the crank pulley.
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#680884 - 27/01/14 08:09 AM Re: 2000 3.3 hard to start when warmed up [Re: e207]
2kbadxterra Offline
Member

Registered: 23/10/13
Posts: 22
Finally.

Did the timing belt yesterday.
New belt, tensioner, spring, water pump, fan belts....

Had a devil of a time getting the crank pulley off. Had to make a puller to do it.

I hate the radiator / shroud / transmission lines.
Left the house at 7:30. Had it in the barn turning wrenches by 8:00. Spent a couple of hours on that dang crank pulley, finished at 5:30. Cleaned up my work space by 6:30, back in the driveway at 7:30 just when the temp started falling back to the deep freeze.

The tensioner on it was shot. Rusty and the belt felt really loose. Hard to describe, but it was like it had 1/4 inch free play before the tensioned spring helped. Not good. The belt had a few little cracks, nothing terrible. Not sure if it was orig equipment or what. Hard to say.

The fan belts were terrible, all cracked up. 2 diff mechanics delcared them fine less than 2 months ago.

I can finally stop worrying about that belt which is a huge relief.




Edited by 2kbadxterra (28/01/14 05:32 AM)

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#680886 - 28/01/14 11:54 AM Re: 2000 3.3 hard to start when warmed up [Re: 2kbadxterra]
2kbadxterra Offline
Member

Registered: 23/10/13
Posts: 22
New exhaust yesterday.

Need 2 new tires on the front, fix the a/c, and the leaky injector still, but getting closer to all fixed.

The a/c can wait till warmer days and the starting is not urgent either. It starts, ya just have to crank kinda long when the motor is between hot and cold. See the first couple of posts in this thread if ya want a description.

The quiet exhaust makes the whole feel of the car better.

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