Yes, the wiring kit was very complete and included everything you need.

The stock alternator does give you plenty of power for the lights. On battery, they might run for 15-20 minutes before killing your battery. Just to be on the safe side, I've upgraded to the red top Optima gel battery.

As for the wattage, that's up to you what you want to run. I'm going to pop another two lights up top. Pnut has four of these, so it shouldn't be any problem.

The light you put out will be worth it. You could light up the dark side of the moon with these things.

------------------
01 SE 6cyl 5spd Solar Yellow

hey guys the instruccions on the wiring kit are for them to turn on when the headlights are on and I don't want to do that. The question is if I just want them powered by the battery do I have to use the relay or can I just run straight power acc. ground to the switch.

------------------
'01 super black XE 4x4
name: VADERX

You still need the relay, or you'd cook your switch. The lights themselves stay on their own (heavier fused) circuit. The switch is independant and tells the relay to "enable" the light circuit when you throw it.

I have four lights, two on one switch and two on another, both using their own relay. Works independant of the headlights and they work GREAT.

------------------
kjw & the
PNUTMNM

Blaming Guns for Columbine is like blaming spoons for Rosy O'Donnel

What I did was run the switch wiring to the extra hole in the dash, next to the rear wiper rocker. It was convenient because it's right above the fuse block...

Behind there, down by the fuse block is a line that's hot all the time. I tapped into that one (I was too lazy to look it up and not near my manual). I can get you the coloration of the wire if you'd like. I'll look it up tonight also and see what exactly I tapped into...

After spending a few hours in the hot sun and getting frustrated trying to get the wire through the firewall grommet, I was like... Whatever! Just make it work already!

------------------
01 SE 6cyl 5spd Solar Yellow
"Sleep... A completely inadequate substitute for caffeine."

Well I finally got it done I ran power to the relay and the switch direct from the battery after the fuse. The wiring kit that jc sent me was pretty wimpy and only had a 15 fuse with thin wire. I used a thicker gauge or wiring throughout and bought a new switch so all I used from the wiring kit was the relay. Anyway they work great and are very very bright and they work independently of the headlights. Hopefully when I install my roof mounted lights it wont be such a problem.

------------------
'01 super black XE 4x4
name: VADERX

Cool man - congrats!

It seems J.C. Whitney offers a slightly different kit than what comes in the box with the KC Daylighters... I got a 25A and 3A fuse, relay, wires (of good guage) and enough conduit to cover it all - plus two sheet metal screws and a green lighted rocker switch and it's bezel.

I'm still looking for the right rocker to replace that green one. I have some killer ones that I got as samples, but I gotta find 'em first... Radio Shack is useless.

------------------
01 SE 6cyl 5spd Solar Yellow
"Sleep... A completely inadequate substitute for caffeine."

BP if your X is a 2000 Electoken has a solution to be able to turn on your fog/driving lights independently of the headlights regardless if you have the high or low beams on.

------------------

http://www.gpxo.org

Got Spark?

It's a 2001 SE, and I got the HOWTO already (thanks to a kind fellow XOCer) but I've gotta get in there and do it...

I'm not terribly worried about the fog lights being on with the highbeams, since the original concept is sound - that is, you wouldn't be using highbeams in the fog, anyway. And, quite honestly, the stock fogs are pretty lame as far as light output goes and they only light up the area immediately in front of the truck.

But still, yeah - I would certainly like to control this myself, so if I did want to squeeze out every last photon available, I could...

------------------
01 SE 6cyl 5spd Solar Yellow
"Sleep... A completely inadequate substitute for caffeine."

Well guys now that I have the lights installed I am unsure as to what light covers to get. Should I go for the hard plastic, vynil, black grid, or the clear hard covers. I really don't know. I have never had them before so I don't know if it is a pain in the but to get out and take the covers off the lights every time you want to use them. I want to get the black grid ones but I am afraid the heat of the lights would melt them since I have the 150 watt lights.

------------------
'01 super black XE 4x4
name: VADERX

Hey border something for you to know, you will need to upgrade the wires going from the battery to the relay. I followed all the instructions that KC gave me, but the wires still melted. I even had the fuse holder melt?!?!?! I suggest a 10 gauge wire to the relays instead of the wimpy 16 gauge they send with it other then that all the other wires are fine on my set up.

------------------
Scott "Chia" Holland
SWXC Member #42
"Yes its true more vinyl decals more horsepower"

[This message has been edited by Chia (edited 06-24-2001).]

Chia, yeah - you know, I was looking at the wiring, thinking that they might be a little on the thin side considering how much power the lights have... But, when you think about it, a 300w light bulb goes through pretty much the same gauge wiring in your house...

I was wondering though, if a thicker gauge wire might serve to assure a brighter, whiter light. Especially once you get four of these things going...

As for covers, they come with the classic yellow KC covers, but I picked up the soft covers with the sunglasses as well, thinking it'd be a more secure cover (since it is a bitch to get on until they stretch a bit). Also got 'em as a spare, as I just know some @sshole is probably gonna snag one or the other set...

I'm thinking about getting the clear acrylic covers though, since you can leave those on and not have to jump out to take 'em off...

For around town though, the yellow smileys are kinda trick, since I have a Solar Yellow X...

------------------
01 SE 6cyl 5spd Solar Yellow
"Sleep... A completely inadequate substitute for caffeine."

what do yall think of these.



------------------
'01 super black XE 4x4
name: VADERX

Those guards are cool, but there are a few problems I see with 'em. First, the grid will protect the lens if a rock hits IT, and not the lens. I see much more open than closed, so the odds are...

Secondly, I don't care for the logo over the lens. It's one thing if it's removable, but this guard is meant to stay on... Granted, the lights are probably bright enough that you wouldn't notice, but that's still lame.

I'd go for the clear acrylic shield, myself. Or look for headlight guards that are made of wire mesh that you safety wire over the lens (I think they make these for Jeeps or dune buggies)

------------------
01 SE 6cyl 5spd Solar Yellow
"Sleep... A completely inadequate substitute for caffeine."

um the logo is there but it is cut out so where it looks white it is actually open space I got them today and am waiting for night to fall to see if there are any problems I will let yall know.

------------------
'01 super black XE 4x4
name: VADERX

Put my lights on last night. The hardest part was finding the UPS truck that was carrying them. We must have the loose part of the ship here. Someone forgot to mention that the holes in the ARB bumper would need to be larger. A couple hours with the dremel fixed that. Running the wires was easy - I ran them along the fender well. The advice on putting the lights on before putting in a winch is sound. I had a hell of a time screwing in the light that is over the part of the winch where the wiring is. Now all I need is a good looking switch.

------------------
'00 SE 4x4

I just installed 100W sealed beam, un-marked KC daylighters. I used 12 gauge wire, ran it straight off the battery using a 25A fuse. Installed the red switch into the blank plastic piece next to the rear wiper switch. DAMN they are bright. Total cost (2 lights, wiring, switches, fuses and covers) 40 bucks.

Just remember

Amps = Watts / Volts.

So all of you that have 150W daylighters.
you are using 25Amps per set. And your altenator puts out about 80 amps when it is at full blast around 1500 RMPs or greater.

------------------
Goliath the X
*************************
Cloud White, XE, 3-Pack
31 X 10.5 M/T * AR-767 Rims * Rock Sliderz *
MAXC Member

son of a @!#$!@$ my lights stopped working today the switch still lights up but when I flip it the lights do nothing I just hear a clicking sound could this be my relay going bad or what any ideas guys.

------------------
Were in the spirit world a$$hole they can't see us.
'01 super black XE 4x4
name: VADERX

Not to burst your balloon or anything, but I'm real curious how your KC lights will be a year from now. I've gone through my share, always had problems with the seals and reflectors on them. If anyone is within a winter belt, ( which I think was the real cause ) I'd suggest checking the rubber seal to the lense, and watch for condensation. They were great lights, but not on a long term. I went through 10 lights over -10 years.. ( 5 at a time ) on my 4runner.

------------------
member of http://www.soxc.org
http://www.geocities.com/x_canuk

I found the problem turns out I forgot to seal the friggin fuse and it got some grime on it so not enough juice was gettin through. Luckily I live in the desert so my biggest problem will be having the seals drying out. Plus they were cheap and simple to replace.

------------------
Were in the spirit world a$$hole they can't see us.
'01 super black XE 4x4
name: VADERX