How is the Xterra’s stock intake, and electrical system when it comes to crossing water? Ever since this happened, I am a little scared to cross deep water in trucks. So does anyone know what’s safe to do in a stock Xterra, or what’s the deepest you may have crossed without problems?

And another question, when crossing water in trucks is it better to do it faster or slower?

I have seen stock xterra's (well, i guess not completely stock, BFG ATKO's)cross streams, one a 4wd that crossed a stream up to the headlights he is GRN-X
and TremorX has an almost stock 2wd (tires,and shackle lift) and he has crossed a stream that was about 3ft high and moving quite swiftly.

... and I highly advise against it.

I also advise against it. The ECU is located between the driver's right foot and the passenger's left foot, on the floor over the trans tunnel.

Also, you have wiring running under the vehicle that, although it is insulated, isn't designed for water crossing. Air intake and such are only a small portion of the considerations needed for these adventures. Your fuel pump is also run electrically.

If needed, and there is no way around it, go just fast enough to create a small bow wave in front of the X, but not slow enough to allow the wave to collapse around the X. As in, don't stop!

Also, don't cry when something shorts out, your Oil light comes on due to shorting to ground (until it dries out) or your radiator fins fill in with fine silt and mud, letting your vehicle overheat easier. And don't blame Nissan either. You don't see them doing that in the commercials. The don't do Potato Salad hill either, but that's another thread.

Oh come on, I thought we would see the PhoeniX giving it a go in '05

-Doug

Well, if you say please...

Ok you asked for it.

Please


-Doug

I'd stay below the hubs, simply because I don't have time to repack my bearings every other day. You'll be spending a shitload of money on bearing seals too.

Anybody know if the new X has sealed bearings?

the bearings are pretty well packed and water does not intrude as much as you would think. sure if you leave the truck parked in deep water it will find it's way in, but we've done plenty of water filled excursions as they are common on our trails and i've only repacked a few times and each time i've found the grease to still be clean.

Correct on the hubs staying clean. The diff vent for the front diff is high, but I'd still attatch a longer piece on the end, run it up to the top of the firewall. The rear diff vent should also get the same treatment.

The trans and transfer case vents are at the top of the engine block, at the back of the engine. So they should also be good. Extra hose on the ends though would just be more insurance.

The starter cable off the battery is down low though, as well as the alternator. Killing either would make for a short excursion, and those that claim they've never had a problem with either may be running on borrowed time.

I've personally replaced fried positive battery cable harnesses on Fronty's, Pathy's and a couple of X's that decided they could cross deep water. Found sticks in alternators, aluminum cans stuck to starters (would've caught fire, but was under water) that caused one helluva mess.

Take it a bit more cautious than you would normally, and you should do fine. Just check it over when you're done.

Now Potato Salad hill, well, if you really want it, then OK. Hell, it's been rolled once, let's see if the second time is the charm!

So just where in the engine compartment are the vents?

Can you give a little more detail on location?

All good tips for extra insurance. I've not yet lengthened any hoses, although that'll now go on my short list. Southy's right too. I find my bearings retain their grease far better than I'd expected them to initially. It's most certainly got to do with the amount of time spent in the water. I posture it's something to do with the waters clarity as well? Alternators definitely go far more quickly when continually dunked in thick brown water vs. clear water. Hey Allen, Where's the pics of your rebuild? What stage are you in anyways? Are you going SAS? Inquiring minds want tot know.. And furthermore, if you do scramble up there, you'd better have video rolling at the time

I have heard this 'bow wave' theory a lot but two 4x4 guru's that I respect say they have knelt on a bumper with the hood up while crossing streams at various speeds and they could see NO difference in water height at the engine.

Toy Man

There is enough space around the engine, that the water lever in the engine compartment should be withing an inch or 2 of the outside level. the bow wave will lower the water level around the sides of the truck, at least the down stream side, which will reduce the floating, and help to maintain traction, as well as help to keep water outside, and not inside the truck. Just keep in mind, exhaust manafolds and engine blocks don't like going from operating temp, to 60 or 80 degrees in a few seconds.. the bearings on your drive belt pullies arn't going to be to happy about it either..

During that crossing I did listed above that Gbizzle Listed, I got absolutely no water in my truck and although stock , at that time i did have the torsions cranked up a bit, After the run I inspected all areas I believed could present a problem and I was Quite impressed. Stock height and had no problem traveling though 31/2 feet of water. Since I have lifted the truck I have made a crossing in about 4feet + with water cresting my hood... again no measurable amount of water entered the vehicle. I have since the first crossing added silicone to the firewall entrance points to prevent water from enter, and will be adding silcone to exposed terminals at or under potential water levels. So far no water has gotten into my air cleaner box... Might even go snorkel before performance air intake. I dont intend on just going out and running through rivers but I dont want them to stop me from continuing down the trail either.

It's hard to see the vents for the trans/transfer due to them being physically bolted to the top of the transmission, going over the engine block. It's right at the firewall. If you think #6 spark plug was hard, think 3" deeper, and on the passenger side.

The stage of the build is I just got the transmission in a couple of weeks ago. I've finally decided to go back to the original plan, and just cut the entire top off the Xterra. I want to turn the lower portion of the hatch into a tailgate, similar to a pickup. Then run a body cage and have a canvas top.

Priority is though, I have to get Jorge some money for the truck! I finally paid off the transmission, and need to pay off the truck. He's a great guy, and I don't want to piss him off by spending more money on the truck, without making some payments for the truck itself.

We'll have a mod day in a couple of weeks, when we cut the top off. Beer, saws-alls and friends, what could be better? We'll be taking picks, for sure. And yeah, SAS, rear spring over with the Nissan Motorsports single leaf and hopefully 35" tires before GONE next year. That's the plan anyway.

Looking forward to seeing what you come up with..

wouldn't water seep into the driver/pass compartments during water forging?...I've never crossed water before

Yeah it does, but having all the windows closed, and the fan on helps allot.

when you start hearing gurgling sounds because of water coming in through the vents in the doors and eventually through your speakers you know your in deep underneath the plastic step piece by the carpet when you open the front doors is a channel that loves to trap water after water crossings, and if you've been in a lot of water you will hear is swishing from the front to back of the truck till it either drains out or dries out. make sure to take your mats out, clean the carpet with a shop vac and leave the windows cracked for a few days, because if you go that deep water even if not visible, does get in.

That same channel, on the passenger's side, also has your wiring harness in it. The harness that goes to the fuel pump, tails, etc.

Note to self, don't drill drain holes in passenger side...

water crossing is def one of my favorite parts of 4wheeling. but on another note, check out the western PA xterra club for some great vids of x's and water crossings.

i got stuck in a mud pit, my dumb self didnt get out to see how deep it was, i went on my friends advice. i got my x stuck in water up to the hood, got about 4 inches in the cabin, stay away from water, its not worth it, i spent 2000 bux geting my car back to *running* order. it was the alternator and a few o2 sensors a long tow and the sacrifice of a warentee, not worth it at all

Keep moving and go slow. I've seen dozens of Nissans cross in headlight deep water. On only one occassion did I see an alternator problem and that was on a pathfinder. Mind you deep water isn't good for alternators, but if it's relatively clean and not ultra murky/muddy, they seem to survive OK.

Big wakes are a bad idea. Water will swirl around your air intake. Ingest water in the engine and it's time to break out the wallet.

Cyclemut has good advice regarding where your wiring and vent lines are located. Stopping in deep water for any period of time is where you'll have problems. The door seals will keep water out for a couple minutes - then it starts seeping into the passenger area, and that's a mess.