Quote:
Originally posted by k_enn:
Doing a PML is not bad. Just read the write-ups for it and follow the instructions. The best advice for doing a PML is to spray the nuts with PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, or some other penetrant. Spray it heavily, and well in advance (several days is preferable) to doing the work.

Be sure to take the weight off of the front wheels when you do the torsion bars. With respect to the torsion bar adjuster, remember that the top nut is one you need to loosen, the lower one should be welded to the frame. Just loosen the top nut so that the bolt is not locked by the two nuts, and turn the bold in. BTW, the nut should be 19mm so if you don't have a wrench that size you will need to get one.

When I did the shackles, the spring pack would not drop down enough to line up with shackle. To move it down (I was doing the job solo), I placed the factory scissor jack between the spring pack and the frame and opened the jack to drop the spring pack down.

k_enn
Both nuts are loose...none were welded that I've seen.

laugh

The top most nut IS just a lock nut, to keep the REAL adjuster nut from spinning after you're done with the adjustment, etc.

The adjuster nut itself sits in a bowl shaped washer, sitting in bowl in the a dome shaped mount on top of the cross member. (The DOME is welded to the top of the cross member, everything else is loose...)





The adjuster bolt goes up, threads first, through the adjuster finger, that bowl shaped washer, and threads into the adjuster nut...



As the adjuster bolt is threaded into the adjuster nut, the bolt head draws the adjuster finger up with it, twisting the T-Bar, which in turn twists the LCA down, lifting the truck on that corner, etc.



laugh
_________________________
- TJ

2001 Xterra '03 VG33, SE 5 spd, 305/70/16's, Revolvers, UBSkidderz, Doubled AAL's, 3"SL/2"BL, winch/bumpers, skids, sliders, OBA, Snorkel, pine stripes....

Friends don't let friends drive stock.

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