Originally Posted By: superrandomguy
This article over on a pathfinder forum really helped me understand the T-Bar's operation:

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?/topic/17038-how-to-re-index-your-torsion-bars/

Looks like my T-Bars are definitely rust welded to the anchors, hopefully i'll be able to adjust them enough without having to completely remove them as the write up suggests.

Thanks for the help here again! I'll be doing some adjusting soon!

**Edit**

Finally had a chance to fully read through that write-up. Looks like I actually did re-index the T-bars correctly via the front anchor, but didn't tighten the rear anchor nut enough to apply appropriate pressure to the T-bar.


Maybe its your phrasing, but, you're not making sense.

Think of it this way:

1) The t-bars are what hold the front of the truck up

2) The system consists of a splined anchor in the LCA, and a splined adjuster anchor in the cross
member.





3) The Adjuster anchor has a finger (Lever) that is used to rotate the torsion bar in the anchor.






4) The Adjuster finger is raised and lowered by the adjuster bolt (The bolt goes up through the finger, into the cross member, through the cross meber to above it...so the threads of the bolt protrude above the cross member.)





5) The adjustment of the finger is made via an adjuster NUT on the threads of the adjuster BOLT above the cross member...






6) Drawing the HEAD of the BOLT UP (Through the adjuster nut), pulls the finger up with it...which ROTATES the torsion bar.







7) As the torsion bar is rotated, its sets the RIDE HEIGHT of the LCA (Example - the D side bar is rotated counter clock-wise to lever the LCA down, RAISING the truck)

8) If there is no more ROOM in the CROSS MEMBER for the finger to GO UP INTO...IE: You can't rotate the bar ENOUGH to get the ride height you want, THEN....you need to re-index.




9) Re-indexing means you take the bar out of the anchors, and put it back on at a better spot, the same way you take the wrench off a nut to get a fresh turn on it. In practice, this means you have the suspension drooped/unweighted, with the adjuster loosened and the finger hanging down....and take the bar out, lower the finger MORE THAN IT WAS, and put the bar back in at the new position.

10) Once doing the above RE-INDEXING, you have essentially put the bar in with the finger LOWER, so that the bar rotates MORE on the fingers way up into the cross member...and the more it rotates, the more it levers the LCA DOWN and the truck UP.


11) NEWB ISSUE ALERTS - The X is SUPPOSED to be ~ 1.5" lower in front than in back, its designed to work better than way, especially for mpg/cargo handling, etc. IE: Its NOT supposed to be "Level".

- There is a second LOCK NUT on top of the ADJUSTER NUT. You must remove this lock nut to be ABLE to adjust with the ADJUSTER NUT. The lock nut is TO lock down the adjustment so it doesn't move...loosen it before starting, after DONE, tighten it back down.

- The adjustment CAN'T be done by counting turns of the bolt, or by eye from the jack stands back onto the ground..you HAVE TO drive it around to SETTLE the suspension after an adjustment...then RE-Check the measurements, repeat until they don't change...then tighten the lock nut and enjoy.

laugh
_________________________
- TJ

2001 Xterra '03 VG33, SE 5 spd, 305/70/16's, Revolvers, UBSkidderz, Doubled AAL's, 3"SL/2"BL, winch/bumpers, skids, sliders, OBA, Snorkel, pine stripes....

Friends don't let friends drive stock.

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