Originally Posted By: superrandomguy
Sorry about my wonky phrasing, but thank you VERY much for your elaborate explanation.

You confirmed that I was in fact properly understanding how the torsion bars function.


To reiterate what I was trying to explain, I ended up "re-indexing" my torsion bar before i'd even done research online and knew the term existed. It just seemed like the logical thing to do.

I re-indexed the bar via the anchor on the LCA, rather than the anchor on the mid-cross member as was explained in the post i linked. Also in that post on the pathfinder forum, he completely removed the bar from the rear anchor. I didn't want to have to do this as i'm pretty sure the bar is rust welded into the rear anchor (it was super stuck in the front one).

Anyways, I re-indexed the bar, but didn't apply any torsion to it (eg, screwing the anchor up towards the top of the car). As a matter of fact, before your thorough explanation and excellent pictures, I wasn't 100% sure which way to adjust the anchor for proper torsion.


Thanks again!


You'd have to move the LCA to a new position to re-insert the t-bar to re-index it.

Otherwise, when you put it back, it would be the same way it was when you removed it.

Therefore you did NOT re-index it from the LCA side...you re-inserted it in the same position it was when you removed it...and that's why you sat low.

You NEED TO remove the bar from the adjuster anchor...despite the rust welds.

You take a large drift pit (Or a sturdy bolt, etc...), and DRIVE it from the rear through the back of the adjuster (With the front/LCA end already disconnected...)

Spray it all with PB Blaster (NOT WD40) and let it soak a few days before starting if it seems really bad....to get the splines to let go. I spray it every day for a few days when its rust welded bad....works like a charm.


You can ALSO take the adjuster/t-bar out of the cross member in one large gangly piece, and then slam a barbell weight down the t-bar at the adjuster until it "Slide Hammers Off". (Rest the down side of the t-bar on a socket, or other support that fits into the adjuster hole...so the adjuster CAN slide down when finally freed)


So, you still have a way of fixing the suspension, now that (Hopefully) you get that you DIDN'T get it before...but DO get it NOW?

laugh


PS - Use antisieze compound on all the threads and splines to make this a breeze the NEXT time.

The adjuster is there BECAUSE t-bars (as all springs do), sag with age....and you WILL eventually make further adjustments.



Edited by TJ (15/05/12 06:53 PM)
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- TJ

2001 Xterra '03 VG33, SE 5 spd, 305/70/16's, Revolvers, UBSkidderz, Doubled AAL's, 3"SL/2"BL, winch/bumpers, skids, sliders, OBA, Snorkel, pine stripes....

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